Michelle Del Rio, on crafting with purpose and cultural heritage
Of Colombian, Mexican, and Spanish descent, Californian-born designer Michelle-Louise Del Rio draws inspiration from her diverse roots, informing her creative process. She navigates in a multicultural world where she propose a unique vision fruit of her discovery process across architecture, philosophy and fashion. Michelle introduced us to her unique point of view and how she consciously craft designs rooted on her tradition.
Interview: Francisca Ceballos, Photography: Courtesy of Michelle Del Rio, Jenna Saraco
Your Bio cites “Hecho con intención y cultura”, can you please explain to us what it means?
A significant portion of my time is dedicated to studying historical attire and crafting designs rooted in tradition. I want to ensure what I produce reflects my cultural heritage and is imbued with purpose. For instance, I was set on collaborating with Colombian women in some capacity… I didn't want to simply produce for the sake of it. It took considerable effort to connect with the right individuals to collaborate with.
You have Colombian, Mexican and Spanish roots, but you were born in the USA. It is quite interesting to speak from a place where you don’t belong to a single culture/place. How do you feel about it?
I find it incredibly beautiful. While I understand that some people struggle with issues of identity, I personally cherish the complexity and fusion of cultures. Each is unique, yet there are many striking parallels. Growing up, I was immersed in a predominantly Colombian culture at home because of my mom. In contrast my dad, is what you might call a "Chicano." He embodied more of a Southern California vibe than a strictly Mexican one, if that distinction makes sense... I know that many Chicanos in California can relate to this experience. Even though I didn't grow up in close proximity to Mexico, I am passionate about researching and exploring the connections. There are so many similarities in historical costume among all three places, and I find that incredibly beautiful!
How do you merge your multiple cultures, backgrounds and references in your practice?
There are specific elements of attire that are common to all three cultures, such as tassels. In my last collection, Milagros, I incorporated tassels into a pink lace top. While tassels are used in different ways in Colombia, Mexico, and Spain, my interpretation is a fusion that blends all three cultures into a single garment. I spend a lot of my time researching these three places and connecting the dots until I find something that resonates deeply with me.
You have also lived in different cities around the globe. Is there a place that you feel that influences you the most?
You know, I can't really say that the places I've lived in have inspired me creatively. I lived in New York, which was great in many ways, but I didn't find the city itself particularly inspiring. It was vibrant and I love my community of friends, but there was something about New York that just didn't ignite my creativity. The one place that truly inspired me was a small village outside of Bogotá, Colombia. It's a village inhabited by artisans who create art to sustain themselves. The people there are incredibly warm, and the energy of the place was truly beautiful.
Why relocate now to Paris?
My partner and I were eager for a change and to live in a new environment. He’s mentioned his desire to live in France again at some point in his life, which I found intriguing. I also feel drawn to the city of Paris because of its vibrant community of artists, who I feel a strong connection to.
Why switch from architecture to fashion? Does your school in architecture influence in some way your approach to fashion design?
I had always dreamed of creating clothing, but I never thought it was a realistic path for me. I believed that becoming a designer required significant wealth. It might sound strange, but one day, when I was 23, my brother's friend, who is a medium, approached me and said, "You know, you're not meant to be doing what you're doing. I know you want to make clothes." I was completely taken back. I was confused at the time, but deep down, I knew she was right. I had been struggling with this realization.
I didn't have any formal fashion education until I went to college. As a child, I always enjoyed creating my own clothes, even though I didn't know how to sew. I would rip my shirts and decorate them with glued-on pennies. My approach to design, focusing on form before fabric, might be influenced by my fascination with architecture. While many designers start with the fabric and then shape the design, I prefer to envision the form and structure first. Perhaps that's just the architecture speaking.
You also studied Philosophy and Native American Religion. What are you bringing from these studies to your brand?
I wouldn't say that I'm directly applying those studies to the brand, but I can definitely say that my studies in this field have helped me connect more deeply with myself and the world around me.
You mix traditional craftsmanship, local production, and self-production. Can you describe the creative/work process, and how the collections are made?
I hand sew all my samples. Then, I decide which pieces will require more units. For wholesale orders or larger production runs, those designs are sent to Colombia for manufacturing. Some pieces, however, I'll only produce a small quantity of, perhaps just five, and make and sell those directly. I don't feel the need to mass-produce everything just yet. I'm taking a slow and steady approach to building the brand. Starting a brand can be very costly, especially when self-funded. I want to ensure that I'm making the right decisions before investing all my money into large-scale production that might not sell. That approach just doesn't seem sensible to me.
Your design process looks like a playground, how would you describe it? Do you feel it like this or is it more rational?
Definitely not a playground. I’m a very rational person. haha. I design with fluidity but also rationality. I do have to think about my brand as a business as well. I can’t just be here making things to make if they don't make sense. I know that doesn’t sound as appealing to some but at the same time- it’s hard being an emerging designer and trying to avoid debt. This is something I am trying to lean on a little more- having a business approach as well as being the creator.
How do you find a market in the overwhelmed fashion world?
I believe that DTC (direct to consumer) will become increasingly prevalent in the future. Connecting directly with your audience and utilizing pop-ups appear to be effective strategies for brands. I plan to start implementing these strategies soon, but I'm taking it slow as I've recently found a production team that I really love. I'm also amazed at how some independent designers are able to create collections for every fashion season! I'm not sure that aligns with my approach. The idea of constantly creating for each season sounds exhausting to me.
5 songs that sound like Michelle Del Rio
Sala La Luna, Vicente Soto Sordera
No Me Toquen Ese Vals, Julio Jaramillo
Danza de la Paloma Enamorada, Atahualpa Yupanqui