On countering the fashion system with Studio Ventisei
Studio Ventisei is a virtual space that aims to counter the fashion system by giving honest and tangible support to young talents entering the market, and by raising awareness and education on consumption. On the occasion of the launch of our first fanzine in collaboration with performer Martina Rota, we spoke with the founder Carolina Beltrami about their creative relationship with designers and how they approach a fast-paced environment at their own rhythm.
Interview: Francisca Ceballos, Photography: Ottavia di Leo for Studio Ventisei, Elisa Bolzonello
Please tell us about your foundations, what’s behind Studio Ventisei?
Studio Ventisei was established in 2018 from the desire to create a space to give voice and support young, emerging designers. The project was at first developed as a physical space—for meetings, dialogue, exchange and sale, hosting events and exhibitions. After, it evolved into a virtual space, the launch of the web platform was in 2019 with the subsequent expansion abroad and the evolution of our system. Since day zero, Studio Ventisei has been operating and moving in line with a very specific ethic and desire: to give real and tangible support to young talents entering the market and to counter the fashion system—which is often too fast and not very conscious, by raising awareness and educating on buying. Buying less and with more awareness, respecting garments, and those who produce them. Respecting the environment and its rhythms. This is what’s Studio Ventisei is about, and what we try to communicate and apply on a daily basis.
What's the main goal behind the project?
Mainly and almost exclusively abroad, outside Italy, there were already online and physical stores interested in including emerging designers, but it was clear to us that support was limited only to the final stage: the sale. Our goal and strong desire was to work alongside designers and talents from the early stages of development and production. For someone who is just starting out, launching their own project is not practical in any way. Our goal aims to make ourselves available, to create spaces and to give voice at our own pace. This is the reason why we are not—and do not want to call ourselves an “E-commerce”.
What are the selection criteria to get into Studio Ventisei?
Scouting and selection are perhaps the most complex phases for us. Selection is punctilious, considering what we invest, with all respects, in each talent that interfaces with us. We have always preferred quality to quantity. There is a precise thread, in ethical and aesthetic terms, between the projects we curate. And a weighted, customized process for each route. The criteria are an integral part of our manifesto: sustainability, quality, awareness, and distinctiveness.
Is sustainability one aspect to take into account?
Yes, undoubtedly. Since day zero, Studio Ventisei has been operating and moving in line with a very specific ethic: to counter the fashion system—which is often too fast and not very conscious, by raising awareness and educating on buying. Buying less and with more awareness, respecting garments, and those who work on them for us, as the environment and its rhythms. Nevertheless, it is not a limitation and we do not like rigidity in any way. It often happens that when working alongside us, talents find more sustainable solutions and approach design with a different, more conscious outlook.
What is the relationship with emergent creatives?
Profound and transparent. Dialogue is the key. We spend a lot of time discussing and conversing in order to understand from the outset the identity and goals of the person we interface with. We believe in formality, respect, and professionalism.
Our relationship is also humane, familiar. Besides being a very creative environment, Studio Ventisei remains to all intents and purposes a working environment, and as such reflects its dynamics. We are keenly aware that, behind each talent, there is a human, who can commit mistakes, might not be inspired and requires more time. For this reason, we make sure to create space for sincerity, reality, accepting and making certain situations our own, to find common solutions.
Do you have any influence on their creations, collections?
Yes, in most cases we do. It depends on the type of collaboration we choose to establish during the first meetings. Some collaborative models we apply, contemplate four-handed design. But even when it is not foreseen we always discuss the selection, details, fitting. Mainly because of the mutual trust that is established, also given by the same common goal and shared principles.
Having an independent brand now seems more complex every day. How do you encourage them to continue this path?
Talking to everyone is the same as talking to no one. We strongly believe in the niche market. We believe in building fidelity, in promoting durable, sustainable, qualitative and limited pieces that will find appreciation in the right people. We know who we are addressing and we try to sensitize those who still don't understand us. The future holds more, and change is constantly near. Purchasing trends change, the system changes, all the time. If we really let difficulties hold us back, on our own as in any other field or situation, we would never take the first step.
Do you feel you are contributing to a good cause?
In a very (very) small way, maybe. We hope to. There is so much to do.
What’s the reward behind all this work?
There would be much to say. Great sacrifices, great satisfaction. We believe in change, in the evolution of the system and the steps we take each year, feeding everything.
What’s next? Is there a Studio Ventisei collection or an exclusive collaboration with brands in the future?
To increase our community and our reach. To be able to support more talents, concretely, every day. We have many projects in the pipeline. The pandemic has brought out a lot of talent, but at the same time it has limited and slowed down our system. Fortunately, this has not fatally affected the project, allowing us a recovery and continuity, but the ambitions are great and the desires are many. If we unveil them, we would risk never seeing them realized!